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301 Moved Permanently - igpub.com
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Date: Thu, 29 May 2025 08:10:34 GMT
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date: Thu, 29 May 2025 08:10:39 GMT
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date: Thu, 29 May 2025 08:10:41 GMT
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HTTP Kodu 301 Kalıcı Olarak Taşındı
http durum kodu 301, istenen kaynağın kalıcı olarak yeni bir URL'ye taşındığı anlamına gelir. Gelecekteki tüm istekler yeni adresi kullanmalıdır.
Kod 301 ne zaman kullanılır?
- Bir web sitesi alan adını değiştirirken
- URL yapılarını değiştirirken
- SEO için yönlendirmeleri ayarlarken
Kod 301 kullanıcı için ne anlama geliyor?
Tarayıcı kullanıcıyı otomatik olarak yeni adrese yönlendirecek ve arama motorları dizinlerini güncelleyecektir.
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<p class="label"><a href="https://www.igpub.com/category/blog">Blog — May 21</a></p>
<p class="title"><a href="https://www.igpub.com/the-hidden-island-2/">The Hidden Island</a></p>
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<p class="">Coming in August–The Hidden Island by Abraham Jiménez Enoa. Below is Abraham’s epilogue from the book, about his exile from Cuba.</p>
<p class=""><strong>Epilogue</strong></p>
<p class=""><strong>Journey to Another World</strong></p>
<p class="">I wasn’t prepared for my last house arrest. In my head, I had already left Cuba, and so I wasn’t ready when a carload of cops and plainclothes security agents descended on my home to prevent me from covering a protest scheduled for November 15<sup>th</sup>, 2021.</p>
<p class=""> The house arrest brought me back to reality. It also sent me into a crisis of anxiety. My whole body hurt. My ribcage felt as if there was a knife stuck in it. It was as if my head wasn’t working, or had been disconnected from the rest of me. An uncontrollable rage took over. Later, my therapist explained to me that anger is the other side of sorrow, and I was, indeed, very sad. My grief was consuming me.</p>
<p class=""> Since June 2016, I had been subjected to a migratory regulation prohibiting me from leaving Cuba. “Migratory regulation” is a Castroist term. It’s one of the government’s ways of retaliating against anyone that crosses them: denying that person the ability to leave the island, which, aside from the end of the dictatorship, is what most Cubans want. We aren’t especially avid travelers; we just want progress, which is available only if we emigrate, and even those uninterested in living elsewhere hope for a chance to breathe freely, to supply ourselves with oxygen abroad before we dive anew into the dark well of totalitarianism. </p>
<p class=""> Migratory regulation wasn’t the only repressive technique the government used to try to force me to give up my journalism, but it was the worst: worse than house arrests, arbitrary interrogations, and the occasional kidnapping; worse than harassing my friends and family, threatening to jail me, slandering me on the news, reading my correspondence. In a country that treats independent journalists as if we were terrorists, not being allowed to leave is itself a form of political imprisonment. </p>
<p class=""> For two decades, migratory regulation was the government’s preferred punishment for those who opposed the regime. However, by forbidding dissidents to leave, the government unwittingly created an island full of angry people, armed with the internet. This suppressed anger exploded in July 2021, leading to the biggest anti-government protests in Castroism’s seventy-three-year history.</p>
<p class=""> Seeing its citizens in the streets showed the state that it needed a new strategy. Rather than trapping dissenters on the island, the regime decided to get rid of them. Freedom in exchange for exile. As a result, nearly all the members of the civil society that arose online in the mid-2010s have left Cuba, and those who remain are either in prison or otherwise bound and restrained by the government.</p>
<p class="">* * *</p>
<p class="">Before I became “regulated,” I had never left Cuba because, until 2013, it was very hard to do so. You had to request permission from the state, which could easily be denied, and even if you got it, you still had to pay $100 for a passport, which was far more than I could afford at the time. (I was writing for a magazine called <em>OnCuba</em>, getting paid $3 per article.)</p>
<p class=""> My departure from Cuba began with a call from a blocked number. I answered and heard a man yelling. I couldn’t understand a word he said. He didn’t introduce himself. As I was about to hang up, he said, “passport.”</p>
<p class=""> In that moment, I remembered that all the calls I’d received from State Security—threats, orders to show up at a certain police station at a certain time to be interrogated—came from blocked numbers. I asked the man who he was, but he ignored me and continued yelling. I finally made out, “Don’t you get it? You can have a passport! Go apply!”</p>
<p class=""> He went quiet, and I had no idea how to reply. Eventually, he asked, “Aren’t you going to thank me?”</p>
<p class=""> “I don’t have to thank anybody for giving me back a right that was taken away,” I said, and then I hung up.</p>
<p class=""> I sat in my living room, neither happy nor surprised. Maybe I would have felt better if the man hadn’t asked me if I was going to thank him. But his question, or demand, made me feel pathetic. I saw myself as a slave, a loser, a worm, to use the word the regime prefers for its opponents. I was still subject to the government’s universal, oppressive control.</p>
<p class=""> * * *</p>
<p class="">Life in Cuba is absurd, and all that those who live here can do is try and adapt to it, accustomed as we are to the horrors Castroism relies on to perpetuate itself. For proof, consider the start of this epilogue: <em>I wasn’t prepared for my last house arrest</em>. A person who writes that assumes that arbitrary house arrest is normal. A person who writes that comes from a position of legal helplessness. A person who writes that is attempting to defend himself by speaking out, since that’s the only option he’s got. A person who writes that lives in a state of constant readiness of being repressed, since he’s chosen to be a political entity in a country where that means you’d better be ready for the worst.</p>
<p class=""> * * *</p>
<p class="">A few days later, I decided to go to the Ministry of the Interior’s passport department to see whether I really was no longer regulated. At the time, there was a pandemic curfew prohibiting citizens from leaving their homes between 9:00 p.m. and 5:00 a.m. I went out before 5:00 a.m., carrying my coffee in a paper cup, and saw lines forming outside every store and market, full of people sneaking out during curfew, hiding in bushes, culverts, alleys, and shadows so that they wouldn’t get arrested while trying to beat the morning rush to buy the little food available that day.</p>
<p class=""> I got to the Ministry of the Interior at ten past five. I was the sixth in line to apply for a passport. Slowly the waiting area grew crowded with others trying to obtain or renew their passports. It wasn’t until 8:00 that my turn came. A sleepy woman asked for my documents and entered my information into her computer. I doubted that I would progress any further. I’d gotten this far before, and had always been told I was regulated. But this time, the woman yawned and, not raising her eyes, returned my papers and said, “Next room for fingerprints.” I was in. It had started.</p>
<p class=""> As I completed the application process, my heart rose. The mysterious caller had been right. In fifteen days, I would return for my passport.</p>
<p class=""> * * *</p>
<p class="">I showed up on the appointed day, again setting off before five o’clock in the morning with my coffee. When I heard my name and went up to the counter, a man handed me a small blue booklet with <em>República de Cuba </em>embossed on its cover. I was shocked. Astonishing that a little leaflet could mean so much.</p>
<p class=""> Shortly after, I was invited to Amsterdam to give a talk and be on a panel on journalism and freedom of speech. I’d received many such invitations before, but I’d always had to decline or participate virtually. My depression began with all my <em>no </em>RSVPs. I saw how many opportunities for career growth I was missing, how many events I didn’t have the freedom to attend, how much I was drowning within the Cuban state.</p>
<p class=""> At the Dutch embassy, I had to wait with a handful of other visa applicants. While the woman before me took her turn, an embassy staffer told me to go wash my hands, which was part of their pandemic protocols. In the bathroom, I had, for the first time in my life, the sense that I was no longer in Cuba. It was the biggest, most beautiful bathroom I had ever seen, with a toilet in one corner and a sink in the other. I could see my reflection as clearly in the shining floor tile as I could in the mirror on the wall. It smelled like anything but a bathroom.</p>
<p class=""> After washing my hands, I was surprised not to see a way to dry them. By the sink was an apparatus that, it occurred to me, could be one of those air-blowing hand dryers I’d seen in movies. But I couldn’t get it to turn on. I hit its side as if it were one of the black-and-white TVs of my childhood, which you’d smack if the signal went out. I struggled with the dryer until the staffer knocked on the door and said, “Sir, it’s your turn.”</p>
<p class=""> Panicked, I ran to the toilet, pulled some paper from the roll, and dried my hands—or tried to. Of course, what happened was that I emerged with the hands of a mummy, covered in damp paper.</p>
<p class=""> A very kind woman helped me through the application process. Surely she saw how anxious I was; before we began, she asked, “Is this your first time?” She looked at my documents, asked her questions, and then got out a fingerprint scanner. However, when I touched the machine, it shut down. How could it not? My hands were covered in wet toilet paper.</p>
<p class=""> “I don’t know what’s wrong,” the woman said. I, hiding my hands behind my back, said that I didn’t know either. She restarted the scanner, and I surreptitiously wiped my hands on my pants, getting them, if not fully paper-free, into a state the machine could manage when it turned back on.</p>
<p class=""> * * *</p>
<p class="">We Cubans get used to living under repression, to seeing our friends and family mistreated, which, of course, leaves scars, but for me, the hardest part of my regulated years was how alone I became. All my friends left Cuba. My childhood neighbors left. My university classmates left. My colleagues left. I ended up knowing very few people in the country—and those who I did know were too afraid of government reprisals to see me.</p>
<p class=""> My solitude reached a level where I went months without speaking to anyone but my immediate family. I left my house only to walk or run, which reminded me that I lived in a nation of ghosts. I thought constantly of my friends who’d left. Nighttime was the worst. When I eventually fell asleep, I dreamed of images and landscapes that made me feel isolated, trapped, shut away on the island with my family. I’d wake up in the dark, sweating and agitated, too afraid of returning to those dreams to fall asleep again.</p>
<p class=""> On my last birthday in Cuba, I didn’t have a single person to invite. I used to treat birthdays as an excuse to have everyone I knew over. This time, I looked through photos of earlier parties, a concession to nostalgia that demonstrated how empty my life had become: every year, more people were gone, until finally the only person left was me.</p>
<p class=""> My last house arrest, which lasted seventy-two hours, was the hardest. The loneliness sent me into panic attacks. Once I was released, I went out for a walk with no destination and found myself at the José Martí Stadium, a decrepit, defunct sports complex on the Malecón. I used to play soccer there with my university friends every weekend. It’s in such bad shape that there’s a guard keeping people out, but I asked him for permission to enter, which he granted. Carefully, I ascended the stands and sat for a while, contemplating the abandoned fields and splintering bleachers. Later, as I left, the guard said, “Brother, it’s a graveyard in there.”</p>
<p class="">* * *</p>
<p class="">Later the same day that I visited the Dutch embassy, my events in Amsterdam were postponed. I was so close to an exit, and now I was blocked. I kept thinking that some superhuman force didn’t want me to leave, that I was going to be marooned in Cuba until I died.</p>
<p class=""> I had my visa, and the Omicron variation of the coronavirus was spreading worldwide. Concerned that it would cause countries to close their borders, I decided to go to Spain to wait for my Dutch events to be rescheduled. I just couldn’t take it any more on the island.</p>
<p class=""> I had to grit my teeth through each moment until I got to the airport, where I met a welcome party of State Security agents in disguise. I recognized them because they tailed me from the moment I got out of the taxi, and because one of them had been part of my last house arrest. As they followed me, they talked incessantly on their phones. I would’ve been on edge regardless due to my inexperience in airports, but the agents’ presence convinced me that I wasn’t going to be allowed to leave.</p>
<p class=""> At security, I created a giant backup because I didn’t know I had to put each of my electronic devices and metal objects in its own bin. When they went through the scanning tunnel, I chased after them, not wanting them to spill onto the floor. Everyone laughed at me but the gate agent, who grabbed me by the arm and showed me the body scanner I’d failed to walk through.</p>
<p class=""> Once I was at my gate, though, I relaxed somewhat. Boarding began; I walked down the cold jet bridge, and lo and behold, I was on the plane. I was leaving Cuba.</p>
<p class="">* * *</p>
<p class="">Leaving Cuba isn’t like leaving any other country. Leaving Cuba means landing in the world. Leaving Cuba shows you that the island has been held hostage in the twentieth century by a political system that won’t let it move forward. Citizens of most other countries aren’t violently shaken by travel, since their lives, to varying degrees, obey the logic of contemporary societies. Cuban-ness, on the other hand, is a serious condition.</p>
<p class=""> When I got out of the plane in Madrid, I immediately knew that I was opening the door to a new world.</p>
<p class=""> Madrid was just a layover—my final destination was Barcelona, where I live today. I felt like a phantom from the moment I arrived. Strange stimuli muddied my thoughts. I was nauseous. My temples pounded constantly. My surroundings seemed faraway and surreal, as if I were in a movie.</p>
<p class=""> After a few weeks, it occurred to me that my head hurt because I wasn’t letting my eyes rest. I was looking at every single thing. I still do. In the street, I look at every bar, every coffee shop, every restaurant, every sign, every store, every person, every person’s mouth speaking its many different languages. It’s a captivating amount of information, too much for my poor eyes. My vision comes from Cuba, where reality is colorless and monolithic.</p>
<p class=""> One day, I went into a bookstore in the Raval neighborhood that was packed with high shelves heavy with books. I couldn’t read the titles: the letters swam. Suddenly I imagined a shelf collapsing and crushing me. I bolted from the store, heart racing, and sat on a bench with some pigeons. My panic wasn’t an isolated event; it was what my new world was doing to me.</p>
<p class=""> I had never been foreign before. Now I’m so foreign, so alien to the world I move through that I feel as if I’ll never learn to belong. If I’m not careful, I stare at passersby like you would an exotic animal. I’m not quite sure why, but my guess is that it has to do with their clothes. People dress very differently in Spain than in Cuba, which makes sense: Cubans can hardly buy food, let alone nice clothing.</p>
<p class=""> I’m struck by the dogs, too. I keep seeing breeds I recognize from movies. I brought this up to a college friend who lives here, and he said, “You’re not noticing them because of their breeds. What you’re noticing is that the dogs at home are aggressive. Here, they’ve got manners.”</p>
<p class=""> My agitation has ruined my appetite. In Cuba, we eat badly or not at all. Here, food is everywhere. The variety and quantity of options are so extreme that my mind can’t handle it. If I’m brave enough to enter a market, I last only a moment before hurrying out, eyes on the floor, alarmed by the mountains of food. I come from a place where you eat whatever there is. I don’t know how to choose between so many yogurts, so many juices, so much of everything.</p>
<p class=""> It’s the same with other kinds of shopping. I arrived here in winter with nothing to wear, since “cold” in the Caribbean means seventy-five degrees. Some friends loaned me clothes while I worked up the nerve to enter a store and buy what I needed. I’m still afraid of shopping. When I walk by a store, I glance out of the corner of my eye at the overwhelming excess of outfits and mannequins.</p>
<p class=""> Speaking of walking, I keep nearly being run over. At first, I didn’t know that the sidewalks had special bike lanes, so I’d walk in them, and would nearly get hit by bicycles or electric scooters. While it took me less time to figure out that every single street, even the small ones, has a crossing light, I still have a hard time traversing big avenues. It goes against my instincts to keep walking ahead, and so, in the middle of crosswalks, I instinctively dodge one person and knock into another. Before long I’m hopelessly tangled, surrounded by people who I can tell want to know what’s wrong with me, why I keep bumping into them.</p>
<p class="">* * *</p>
<p class="">One night, a friend invited me over for drinks. I decided this was a great opportunity to ride the metro by myself, which I’d never done before. I descended the stairs into the station, consulted the map, and tried to go through the turnstile, but my card wouldn’t swipe. I glanced around at the other people until I figured out that I wasn’t doing right: I was waving my card over the slot, not holding it underneath like the other commuters. When I finally did it correctly, the gate sucked my card in so quickly that I jumped as if a dog had bitten me. By the time I regained my composure, the turnstile had opened and closed, and I couldn’t insert my card again; you have to wait fifteen minutes, I later learned.</p>
<p class=""> I went to the help kiosk, if that’s what its called, and explained my situation. Luckily, the woman who was working there sympathized with my plight and used her card to let me in. I went down the next set of stairs just as a train was arriving, but I wasn’t confident it was mine. I asked a man, who said I had to go to the other track. When I got there, I looked at the map, but didn’t see my stop. I was beset by such anxiety that I had to get above ground. I ended up taking a taxi to my friend’s house.</p>
<p class=""> * * *</p>
<p class="">We drank beer until midnight, which was later than I’d intended to stay. I wanted to walk home, so I pulled up Google Maps—also new to me—and headed out. When I thought I was about halfway there, I consulted the route on my phone and found that not only had I gone in the wrong direction, but my avatar also wasn’t moving the same way I was. For fifteen minutes, I paced the same block, my avatar going right every time I went left. I couldn’t figure out how to fix it. Furious and frightened, I shouted a curse so Cuban that a couple walking by stopped and asked, “Are you from Cuba?”</p>
<p class=""> “I am,” I answered, embarrassed, “and I’m lost.”</p>
<p class=""> They were Cuban, too. They took my phone, showed me how to use the app, and accompanied me for a little while, telling me that it had been ten years since they’d been on the island, but that they were thinking of visiting soon.</p>
<p class=""> After we said goodbye, I noticed how cold I was. My phone said it was thirty-seven degrees. Overhead, a billboard caught my eye. <em>Vida Nova</em>, it said. It was an ad for wine.</p>
<p class=""> A few days later, I bought myself some winter clothes. I took this as a sign that I was improving emotionally.</p>
<p class=""> * * *</p>
<p class="">My next shopping trip happened after a Catalan friend invited me to join his nighttime soccer game. I’d never really played soccer after sunset before, because in Cuba, there are no fields or stadiums with lights. My friends and I did sometimes play in darkness to satisfy our soccer addiction, but that was very different from this game, in which there was so much illumination that if the ball went high into the air, I had to shield my eyes with my hand, as if I were staring into the sun at the beach, to see it. A few times, the goalie kicked me the ball and I had to pretend I couldn’t get to it quickly enough because I was afraid that, blinded by the lights, I’d receive it poorly, and in soccer, there’s no truer measure of your skill than whether you can trap a ball coming from above.</p>
<p class=""> Before the game, my friend told me I needed something called “multitacos” so that I wouldn’t slip on the Astroturf, which was completely new to me. I assumed that he was talking about a kind of shoe with cleats you can switch out for different surfaces, like track spikes. But no: I went to a sporting goods store and asked for “multitacos,” which turned out to be special shoes exclusively for playing soccer on artificial turf.</p>
<p class=""> Arriving at the field, I warmed up for a long time, nervous about my balance in my new turf shoes. It felt like I was learning to skate. While I jogged and stretched, I asked one of my new teammates if it was normal for advertisers to encourage compulsive consumption—at the sporting goods store, I’d seen a sign that said, <em>Welcome Shopping Addicts. </em>Reading that hit me hard. It was like a message from my new world. Of course, I knew that capitalism was based on consumption, but I didn’t understand how overt it was. Until that moment, I’d been innocent enough to assume that such intentions were hidden, at least.</p>
<p class=""> Now I can’t stop noticing how capitalism—I’m aware that I’m not breaking ground here—transforms humans into compulsive consumers. I saw it in action when shopping for winter clothes in an enormous, multilevel department store designed to be difficult to leave. I spent more time trying to go up or down a floor than I did trying on clothes. When I decided what to purchase, it was mainly out of overwhelm—and, of course, my route from checkout to exit was full of nicer clothes than the ones I’d selected, tempting me to shop even more.</p>
<p class=""> I have become obsessed with consumption. When I pass a bakery, I wonder how long all the breads and pastries—more than anyone could sell or eat—remain on sale. One time I asked a baker about this, and he told me that you can only sell an item for up to twenty-four hours after it emerges from the oven. After that, everything is thrown away—though Barcelona has recently launched an effort to send these goods to soup kitchens.</p>
<p class=""> A woman lives on the sidewalk outside one of the bakeries near my apartment. I’m fairly certain she’s Arab. She always has a sign that says, in green marker, <em>God doesn’t love me because he doesn’t help me. Please help me get something to eat. </em>Recently I was coming home late at night and saw her asleep on a heap of rags, with more rags on top of her to keep her warm. A foot or two away, a man in an apron and white hat was throwing out two full trays of croissants.</p>
<p class=""> I’m drawn to people like that woman. It’s not misery porn or gloating or hypocrisy; I just want to know how someone gets to this point, sleeping on the street, covered in rags, begging for help. Most of them seem to be immigrants, and I want to know how they got here from Africa, or the Arab world, or—this one is less frequent—Latin America. I never dare to ask them, as it seems cruel.</p>
<p class=""> One time, however, I did speak to someone who was living “rough”—a term I prefer, for unknown reasons, to <em>homeless </em>or <em>beggar</em>. I was meeting a musician friend at a bar, and when I arrived, he was talking to a Cameroonian woman who’d asked him for money. He’d said that instead of money, he’d buy her whatever she wanted. She requested a soda, and while he went to the bar, I stood with the woman, asking how she was, where she was from, and how long she’d been in Spain.</p>
<p class=""> She had a question for me, too. “Where are <em>you</em> from?” she asked. “You’re just as Black as me.” To her, our Blackness both linked us and made my concern for her irrelevant. She thought I should worry about myself. I experience this often when talking to other immigrants: any questions I ask get taken as a cry for help, not curiosity, and before long they’re advising me to get a job as a driver, a security guard, or an Amazon deliveryman.</p>
<p class=""> * * *</p>
<p class="">That ended up being one of worst nights of my life. My friend and I had some beers, said goodbye, and left the bar. Only when I was out in the cold did I realize that I had to pee. Since leaving Cuba, this has become an issue. Part of the problem is that Europeans generally drink wine in the winter, but I don’t especially like wine, so I stick to beer, and so my bladder’s always full. But even when I haven’t been drinking, which is most of the time, I have to pee nonstop. It’s miserable.</p>
<p class=""> I went into the metro station and looked for a bathroom, but couldn’t find one. I told myself that I could manage the eight stops until I got home. It was late, and there were only four other riders in my car. A few minutes later, I felt a sharp pain like electricity in my pelvis. I had to stand and pace to avoid wetting my pants. A drop of urine slid down my leg. I glanced around to see if anyone was looking: one person was, which made me panic. I got off the train one stop early. I could already feel my pants and socks starting to get wet, but once on the platform, my body relaxed completely and I started peeing.</p>
<p class=""> Outside the station, the air was dry and hideously cold. When I pulled out my phone, it was dead, and I had no idea where I was. I raised my eyes and didn’t see a single star. I wanted to cry. I was shivering, lost, and covered in piss. My chest tightened, the start of a panic attack. I was too ashamed to approach anyone who’d left the station with me. Soon I was alone in the street. I waited a long time for another person to appear, a woman who, understandably, didn’t want to talk to a strange man who approached her in the night.</p>
<p class=""> I walked ten blocks in a random direction, longing for Google Maps, before managing to hail a taxi. When I got home, I laid down on the floor, not even bothering to take off my clothes. I felt like the saddest man in the world.</p>
<p class="">* * *</p>
<p class="">When I finally made it to Amsterdam, I was nervous about my talk and panel, because I wasn’t sure what sort of crowd to anticipate and because I’d never done events like these in person before. I’m also not great at public speaking; I like to chat and to listen, but not with everyone’s eyes on me.</p>
<p class=""> During my second event, a man slipped in the back of the auditorium. He looked like a Cuban State Security agent: unfashionable clothes that were neither tight nor loose, thick glasses, notebook in hand, malice on his face. In the middle of my presentation, he began demanding to speak. He was told he had to wait until the Q&A segment. When his turn came, rather than asking anything, he insulted me. He said I was a liar; that Cubans had civil rights, including the right to practice journalism; that no Cubans were in jail for protesting; that no one gets kicked out of the country; that it’s an island paradise. Because the man didn’t ask me a questions, I didn’t reply, which annoyed him.</p>
<p class=""> After the event, I went to the bathroom—you’ll be shocked to learn that I had to pee—and he was waiting for me when I came out. He let loose another barrage of insults. I attempted to listen to him, to have some sort of dialogue, but I eventually accepted that it wasn’t possible and headed to the bar. He followed me, shouting abuse, until the panel’s organizers came to my rescue. Later, a diplomat friend showed me a photo of the man at the Cuban embassy in the Netherlands. He’d been sent to make a scene.</p>
<p class=""> * * *</p>
<p class="">The evening I arrived in Amsterdam, I asked a director friend to take me to the city’s Red Light District. Walking around there scrambled my head. I couldn’t believe that I was seeing women flaunting their bodies in windows, sucking their fingers, posing for spectators, inviting strangers to pay to penetrate their bodies or watch them masturbate in dim, red-bulbed rooms. My Dutch friend told me that although the work the women does is legal, and although they pay taxes, it remains looked down upon. Apparently the state permits it in an effort to prevent human trafficking and regulate prostitution, but neither of those goals has been achieved, and now they’re in a mess they don’t know how to get out of. I was up all night after that, considering the thought that liberty could have its limits.</p>
<p class=""> I returned to Barcelona with renewed energy. My experience in the Red Light District had given me a philosophical problem to consider, instead of my basic concerns with the metro, Google Maps, the heaps of food and goods for sale, the swarms of people on the street.</p>
<p class=""> * * *</p>
<p class="">My next trip was back to Madrid. A good friend of mine who lived there had promised, in the years I was regulated and had no hope of leaving Cuba, that when I did leave, he’d take me to a soccer game at Santiago Bernabéu Stadium. Now he’d gotten us tickets.</p>
<p class=""> While I was in the city, I took care of some professional business and saw some people that I loved, including my therapist. She had saved me in my time of greatest despondence, and I wanted to thank her in person. We’d never met face to face, as all our sessions were virtual. Before starting therapy with her, my psychologist on the island had abandoned me after the regime had its news station call me “a paid agent of the CIA and foreign governments.” I sought treatment from other Cuban therapists, but they all said no for fear of reprisals. I then reached out to the Committee to Protect Journalists, and they put me in contact with my therapist.</p>
<p class=""> We met for a coffee and hugged immediately, then talked for nearly an hour. Sunlight kept shining into my face, reminding me of our sessions in Havana, which all took place on my roof: it was the only place I got good enough internet for her image not to freeze.</p>
<p class=""> During the same trip, I met two Cuban colleagues at the Plaza Puerto del Sol. As I was walking there, a girl in her early twenties stopped me, begging me to listen to her. We were in the center of Madrid, amid a swarming hive of people. She wanted my information for some marketing scheme. I told her I didn’t have an address to give her; I was brand new to Spain.</p>
<p class=""> “Where are you from?” she asked.</p>
<p class=""> “Cuba.”</p>
<p class=""> “Me too! My mom and I came here when I was two, though, and I’ve never been back.”</p>
<p class=""> She thanked me for paying attention to her, knocked her elbow into mine as a goodbye, and wished me luck. As I starting to walk away, I turned to see her already engaged with another person.</p>
<p class=""> In the plaza, the crowds were so dense I was reminded of school outings to the Malecón, when we’d have to dress up and sing songs to commemorate some miniscule milestone or satisfy a whim of Castro’s—though in those cases, unlike in the Plaza Puerto del Sol, I didn’t bump into people dressed like Buzz Lightyear or Mickey Mouse.</p>
<p class=""> * * *</p>
<p class="">The day I left Madrid, I walked to the train station, wanting to see more of the city before departing. On the Paseo de la Castellana, I heard a commotion that turned out to be a protest. Madrid’s left was demonstrating against corruption in the Partido Popular. I sat on my suitcase and watched the march as if it were theater. It <em>was </em>theater to me, a scene I’d never witnessed: police protecting rather than abusing the protestors; protestors waving signs that stated clearly what they wanted; a band; old people; children. I couldn’t help thinking of the more than 1400 people who remained in jail in Cuba for doing this same thing in 2021.</p>
<p class=""> After the march was over, I got up to go to the train station, pausing at a souvenir stand where I didn’t like anything enough to buy. While I was browsing, my mother texted me to say that my grandmother had just been hospitalized in Havana. She died a few days later. She was eighty-three and had never left Cuba.</p>
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